Can you wear knee-high boots to the office with a skirt? Reader B wonders…

I live in DC and work in the public interest world.  I love wearing boots in the winter and when there is inclement weather.  I have two very nice pairs, one which is ankle-length and has a nice looping strap and buckle and the other that is nearly knee-high and has a four inch heel and some great detailing.  They are both fairly formal looking.  Is it appropriate to wear these types of boots to work?  Would it ever be appropriate to wear the tall ones with a knee-length or slightly shorter skirt or dress (as opposed to wearing work slacks over them), and in that instance would tights or leggings be appropriate?

Regarding the ankle length boots, I’m going to say that while I’ve heard from some readers who think all ankle- and mid-calf-length boots are hideous (I love ‘em, so I’m not in that group), I’ve never heard anyone say they’re inappropriate for the office.  Wear ‘em with pants all you want; I’ve even seem some women successfully pull them off with skirts and opaque tights that matched their boots exactly.

Regarding the knee-length boots, now… that’s a more interesting question.  It was only a few years ago that the fashion writer for The Washington Post reacted with horror to an outfit Condoleezza Rice wore that involved black knee-high boots, ultimately calling her a dominatrix.  As she wrote:

As Rice walked out to greet the troops, the coat blew open in a rather swashbuckling way to reveal the top of a pair of knee-high boots. The boots had a high, slender heel that is not particularly practical. But it is a popular silhouette because it tends to elongate and flatter the leg. In short, the boots are sexy.

Rice boldly eschewed the typical fare chosen by powerful American women on the world stage. She was not wearing a bland suit with a loose-fitting skirt and short boxy jacket with a pair of sensible pumps. She did not cloak her power in photogenic hues, a feminine brooch and a non-threatening aesthetic. Rice looked as though she was prepared to talk tough, knock heads and do a freeze-frame “Matrix” jump kick if necessary. Who wouldn’t give her ensemble a double take — all the while hoping not to rub her the wrong way?

It’s a great article by Robin Givhan and one that has to be read.  To be honest, when I first read it — way back when in 2005 — it seemed a bit much.  My personal delineation line for the “too sexy” boot had always been the knee:  if it hit under the knee you were stylish; if it hit over the knee then hey, at least you had a place to store stuff while you worked the streets waiting for Richard Gere.  But not everyone is on the same page with that delineation.  For example, I remember having a discussion back in law school with a friend of mine (with a tongue ring, mind you!) who asked me if I thought knee-high boots were hooker boots and unacceptable for the office.

Maybe these reactions alone are enough for any professional woman to say, “You know, why chance it at the office?”  In fact, that’s still my advice: wear your knee-high boots all you want outside the office, but really think twice before wearing them in the office.  Even though these two conversations were a few years ago, there are plenty of people who form an opinion on what is and is not appropriate for the office when they start working — so unless your boss has been working for less than 7 years, there’s a significant chance he or she might think tall boots are inappropriate for the office.

But perhaps knee-high boots have come a long way since then. So here’s the question:

I’m curious, readers — what are your thoughts about knee-high boots at the office?

A reader alerted me today to a post on XO Jane about a fashion editor wearing a sheer top to work, entitled “DO THIS DON’T: WEAR A SHEER SHIRT TO WORK.” Uh, no.

Now, as this editor admits, she’s never worked outside the fashion and beauty world, so maybe our resumes just aren’t lining up — but even for a creative field, this is the kind of look that would just make me think “Wow, that poor girl must not realize her top is totally see-through.  Maybe I should tell her?”  In fact, I disagree with almost every single line in her column.  So I thought I’d give my take on dressing in semi- or totally-sheer looks for the office, compared against her tale…

1.  “Yesterday I knew I wouldn’t have the chance to stop home after work before going out that night, so I wore this completely see-through, sparkly Isabel Marant top with a tuxedo jacket.”  Dear readers, there are these amazing things called “handbags” — sometimes called “purses,” “totes,” “briefcases,” or even just “bags” — into which you can put all sorts of things, including changes of clothes.  Now, with all due respect to this editor, perhaps she had a big work function that night that required her to wear an edgy, sheer top.  But for more conservative fields like law and others, the message you broadcast when you wear eveningwear to work is that your evening is more important than your day — not a good message to send.

2.  “In real life the nude bra underneath wasn’t visible, so I sort of looked topless, albeit glittery. Like a figure skater.”  I’m going to step away from the proposition that it’s ok to look like a figure skater at work, and instead focus on the first part of the sentence — “in real life the nude bra wasn’t visible.”  Bob, can we have a big gameshow “unnnh” wrong sound again?  If it’s visible when you take a picture of it, I’d say your bra has a 95% chance of being visible anywhere.  Just because the lighting in your bedroom doesn’t detect it doesn’t mean that the lighting in your office — or the coffee room — or the conference room — won’t be the same.  In fact, I would advise all of my readers that when you’re in doubt about the appropriateness of an outfit, take a picture of yourself on your digital camera that morning and check it out.  Sheerness, visible pantylines, wrinkles, stains, and more will all be visible.

3. “…You could always layer a nude cami under either of these options, but I never do, since adding another top ruins the way your see-through one naturally hangs.”  I’m going to disagree with all of this.  I think a good quality camisole will never ruin the way a blouse hangs on you — if it does the camisole is way too big or the blouse is way too small.  I’d also argue that for the workplace, you should never wear a nude camisole — stick with black or white.  The reason?  So you don’t look naked beneath your clothes.  While the editor describes wearing the sweater to a big meeting where “no one gave her a second look,” I’m sure that wouldn’t be true if she worked in a more conservative industry.  You never want people to have to take a second — or third — look at your outfit, because while they’re inspecting your outfit, they’re not listening to what you’re saying.  Worse, your coworkers should never feel like they CAN’T look directly at your outfit for fear of seeing something they shouldn’t.  (For example, that really nice, married, older male boss who has a daughter your age — he may be too embarrassed to look at you, or purposely avoid working with you in the future if you dress like that.)  A plain (non-lacy) black or white camisole makes it clear that they can, in fact, look at you.

4. “[Wearing a nude cami] defeats the purpose of wearing a sheer shirt.”  What is the purpose, exactly?  Is it “to show your bra”?  Because if that’s the purpose, why wear a top at all?  I would argue that there are some sheer fabrics — silks, cottons, even the occasional chiffon — that add an interesting drape, or a lovely softness, or even the perfect misty white, that make them worth wearing to work, despite the fact that they’re sheer.

I would say, obviously, that sheer or semi-sheer tops are still risky for the office (see my points above in #3), but possibly acceptable if accessorized appropriately — with a black or white camisole — or even a turtleneck — beneath, or worn under a vest.  Readers, what do you think of the XO Jane article?  Do you wear sheer tops to the office?

Reader K asks about the merits of cheap suits for women…

I’m in the process of changing from a career where pajamas are appropriate work attire to something more “professional” and need all the help I can get. I have been shopping for an interview suit (my first ever and I am almost 40!) and am not sure how to weigh quality vs cost. My clothes budget has been limited to a few t-shirts, a pair of jeans, and maybe a sweater per year so I am unaccustomed to spending a significant amount of money on clothes. I have been browsing at discount stores like Ross, Marshalls, and Kohls to try and find my interview suit for under $100. However, the more I read your blog the more I am wondering if I should suck it up and spend $200-300 on a suit that is wool from a store like Ann Taylor or Banana Republic. Aside from the fact that a well made wool suit will last longer than a synthetic Calvin Klein suit from Ross, do you think there is a significant visual difference? I figure that if my cheap suit works for the interview I can always invest in quality clothes once I have a job that pays more. However, the last thing I want is for the interviewer to think “damn, that’s a cheap suit!”. Any advice?

Great, great question, and I think we should expand the discussion to the differences between LOTS of different price ranges. (The pictured suit is actually not a cheap one, but rather an expensive one — I’ve just been looking for an excuse to share it with you guys without recommending it.  Tee hee.) Here’s my take:

- Under $100. There are lots of suits to be found for under $100, but in general these are going to be sold as a single “suit” — one price for both the jacket and bottoms, whether you’re getting pants or a skirt. While the skirts can sometimes look OK when worn as a separate, the pants almost never do (at least, that’s my experience). Furthermore, because these suits are so inexpensive, the fabric they’re made of is often difficult to work with and may wrinkle easily, hold smells more easily, and start to get a bit shiny when you dryclean them. Bottom line: These suits are great for when you want to bolster a professional wardrobe — particularly if you have to wear suits 5 times a week — but for my money, I would not purchase this kind of suit for an interview/wardrobe basic.

- Under $200. There are suit separates to be had for under $200, particularly at mall stores (think The Limited, Express, or LOFT), as well as at department stores (Macy’s in particular has a number of “Every Day Value” separates from AK Anne Klein, Ellen Tracy, and Calvin Klein). These will be in basic, solid colors, you can get both pants and skirts (and maybe even multiple jackets) to match, in separate sizes (perfect if you need an 8 on top and a 6 in the bottom). The fabric will not be the best (see above), but in terms of bang for your buck, you’re going to get a lot more wear out of these pieces as a wardrobe staple as WELL as an interview suit. Furthermore, if you have to interview twice, you can wear the skirt once and the pants the next time, instead of wearing the same suit. You can also get a better suit that’s sold as a single unit for around $150 or so — I’ve had good luck with Tahari suits off the rack at Macy’s. Bottom line: If you’re working on a very limited budget, these suits are going to be a better use of your money, give you more wardrobe flexibility, and generally look better than the $100-and-under category.

- $200-$500. This is where your ability to watch sales is going to come into play, because it’s pretty common to see a $500 suit go on sale for under $250 if you know what you’re buying. This price range puts you into the better mall stores — Ann Taylor, J.Crew, Banana Republic — and you’ll start to see better fabrics here, such as natural fibers (look for wool you can wear year-round) as well as suiting separates. These suits are going to wear better, fit better, and be easier to wear as separates than any of the cheaper categories.

- $500-$1000.  The fabrics just keep getting better as you get into the range of Theory, Elie Tahari, Nanette Lepore, Rebecca Taylor, Hugo Boss, and more.  In addition to seeing some great basics (Theory suits are, of course, a perennial favorite), there are some more interesting, lovely suits (as we frequently discover in our Suit of the Week feature).

- $1K+.  I’m sure there are differences in the fabrics and fit for this price range, but let’s just say it:  if you buy a suit in this price range it’s pretty much a) to cross something off your Fashion Bucket List, or b) because you’re so rich the price just does not matter.  (Neither of those are bad reasons!)

Ladies, what differences do you see in different price ranges for suits?  How much does YOUR average suit cost (both in terms of sticker price and in terms of what you’ll actually pay, after any discounts)?

Can you have bare arms at work? Are shells and tanks acceptable to wear under jackets? As everyone’s layering for fall, this seems appropriate to discuss now, and Reader K brings up this age-old question…

I graduated law school in May, and am currently a federal law clerk. My mother, who is an attorney, my sister, a law student, and I have been debating whether sleeveless tops are appropriate work attire for attorneys. I have an ivory silk blouse/shell/tank that I love, but my mother feels is only appropriate if I never take off my suit jacket.

I wore it to chambers with a black skirt suit last week. Normally I wear my suit jacket throughout the day, but that day it was over 80 degrees in chambers…so naturally, I shed the jacket while working. The judge came to give me something while I had the jacket off and while I would have liked to have the jacket on when interacting with him, I shrugged it off considering his office was uncomfortably warm as well. What do you think of the top? Is it appropriate for work? With or without a jacket or sweater over it?

For the record, I prefer wearing sleeved shirts under jackets — in addition to sidestepping the “bare arms” conundrum, it also makes laundering easier by protecting the underarms of your jackets or sweaters.. But I’m really curious to hear what the readers say, so I thought we’d do some more polls to try to close in on what it might be that has historically made sleeveless tops so offensive. Is it strappiness/amount of bra showing? Is it a “this is underwear” vibe to simple camisoles? (Not on the poll:  lacy camisoles and skin-colored camisoles, both of which I’m against for anything but underwear (as in, kept underneath).  Whether worn by themselves or just as a layer to raise the neckline, they look too much like underwear for the office.)  There are other dimensions here also — looseness?  fabric?  What factors are you considering when you say something is or isn’t acceptable, other than a gut feeling (and the all-important caveat, know your own office!)

So I’ve picked four camisoles below in variations of strappy and blousy.  Remember, the question is which tops are acceptable to wear BY THEMSELVES, not just as a base layer….

1) Strappy, plain

2. Strappy, blousy (see also purple cami at top)

3. Thick-strapped, plain

4. Thick-strapped, blousy

For my $.02, #1 is the perfect camisole for layering under something — but does not look the best on its own. #2 looks great on the weekend, and I think there is probably where it should stay. Numbers 3 and 4 don’t look horrible, but to my eyes a sleeved version would just look better and more appropriate in both instances, and so the sleeved version is what I would advise readers to build your wardrobes around.

Readers, what are your thoughts re: being bare-armed in the office? What factors matter when deciding whether a top is acceptable (other than know your own office)?
(L-5)

Can natural, kinky hair be a professional look for women of color? We’ve talked about long hair, blonde hair, even no hair — but we haven’t truly talked about this. Accordingly, I’m thrilled to introduce Patrice Yursik, the blogger behind Afrobella, where natural hair is a regular topic. (It was not so long ago that some women — even fashion magazine editors! — professed that natural hair was a “don’t,” so I’m curious to see what readers say here.) – Kat

There are so many things to consider when beginning a new job. Will you be able to live up to expectations at work? What will your new coworkers be like? What should you wear? And what about your hair — how should you wear it to the office? Hair might not seem like an issue worth seriously worrying about, especially if you’re born with naturally straight tresses. However for many women around the world with naturally curly hair, there can be deeper issues at play. You might encounter old fashioned and unfortunate attitudes about office appropriate hairstyles. And if you’re a woman of color who wants to wear your hair as it naturally grows out of your head, things can be even more complicated. (Photo credit: stevendepolo.)

Kat sent me this email from O as an example of the dilemma:

I truly believe in always looking your best. I will soon be starting a job at a midsize business casual law firm in NYC which only has one other woman of color, and no men of color to speak of. As a black female in the corporate setting, an issue that always comes up is our hair. Currently, I have a “natural”, but often change up my style depending on my mood. I go from twists to wigs. Lately I have been sporting a short styled wig, which gives me some sass, and must say looks great. However, this summer, I want to be carefree, and embrace my natural kinky hairdo. I would have what you would call a mini afro. However, I am curious of the reaction that I might receive from others at the firm. Trust me, I know how to play the game, and have been playing the game all my life. I am wondering what the other seasoned women of color out there have done with their hair, have they received crazy looks, and am I making something out of nothing.

Reader O, congratulations on your new position! And congratulations on embracing your hair’s natural texture. It isn’t always an easy decision to stick to. My blog, Afrobella.com, is all about celebrating natural hair. In the course of five years blogging about this topic and interviewing women from around the world who have gone natural, I’ve come to realize that it takes courage.

Embracing your natural, kinky hair can mean going against your family’s wishes. It can mean dealing with insensitive comments from friends, and it can mean having to deflect ignorance at the workplace. And yes — as covered in this recent CNN article, sometimes it comes with unsolicited attempts at hair touching. I’ve experienced all of the above. In your personal life, you can give a snappy answer to a stupid hair question. In a corporate workplace…not so much. But as your circumstances would have it, I doubt you’ll have to worry much about dealing with “crazy looks.”

You describe your new workplace as a “business casual law firm in NYC.” Please feel free to e mail me and let me know if I’m wrong when you’ve been there for a little while, but I’m going to go ahead and predict that the reception to natural hair in your corporate environment will be politically correct and welcoming. New York City is a mecca for natural hair, and while many women of color there do use heat, relax their hair or wear wigs and weaves to achieve a straight look, there are many, many women who rock their natural hair to corporate jobs and are making names for themselves in the Big Apple.

You mentioned that you enjoy a variety of hairstyles including wigs, but be aware that constant switching of your hairstyle might encourage your colleagues to comment on your changed appearance or ask questions about your hair. In general, I’ve found that my reaction can shape the outcome of these hair question exchanges entirely. I am the type who enjoys a good teachable moment and doesn’t mind answering respectful and well meaning hair questions. However, if you’re not inclined to be the office’s question-and-answer afro ambassador, keep your answers to any and all hair-related questions friendly but brief. Carefully deflect personal conversation to relevant work-related topics. The asker will eventually get the hint.

Carolyn Edgar

For Naturally Professional, a monthly interview series on Afrobella.com and CurlyNikki.com, I recently featured Carolyn Edgar, a stunning woman with beautiful locks, who works as Vice President and Legal Counsel for The Estee Lauder Companies. She knows professional women in every imaginable field, who wear their hair naturally and are well respected for their talents. Carolyn also pointed out that most often, we expect judgment from others because of our own fears and past experiences. “It turned out no one cared what I did with my hair, as long as it was neat. That doesn’t mean people didn’t notice, or ask questions. But I have never been reprimanded, ‘talked to,’ or discriminated against because of my hair,” she said. Carolyn also pointed out that concern about hair texture in the office isn’t solely a black female issue. Black men can face a different experience and find more judgment about their hair choices, particularly in corporate environments. Also white women with curly hair often also feel a pressure to straighten their hair so as to appear “professional.” “Curly-haired women of all races and cultures feel pressured to wear their hair straight and think of their own natural hair as “unmanageable.” I think all women would benefit if acceptance of our hair’s natural texture became a cross-cultural or multi-cultural conversation,” Carolyn added.

The experience a professional woman might have working in New York City is likely to be quite different from the experience other women might have across the country, particularly in areas where natural hair is not as commonplace. Another lawyer recently featured on Afrobella.com, Alycia Carter, hails from Memphis, Tennessee. According to Alycia, natural hair hasn’t held her back in the slightest. “All of the response I’ve had towards my hair in the workplace has been positive. In the professional realm, your work will speak for itself.”

When I specifically asked Carolyn Edgar about your prospects at your law firm, Reader O, she shared a similar sentiment. “As long as her hair is styled neatly and she dresses professionally, I doubt that her hair will be an issue.”

Even though I work as a full time blogger (which just might be the diametrical opposite of corporate life), I would agree with Carolyn. If you come to work looking well groomed and office appropriate from head to toe and bring your A-game on the job, the way you wear your hair should not matter. And if you do get a question or reaction to your hair, don’t let it disquiet your spirit or make you question what you bring to the workplace. You’re a lawyer, and a professional. Like you said, you “know how to play the game, and have been playing the game all [your] life.” Should you ever get a crazy look from a coworker about wearing your hair in a natural style, brush your shoulders off and continue to do your job to the best of your ability. Their reaction might reveal more about their antiquated ideas about natural beauty, than it will reflect on you and how well you fit in at the office.

Readers, what are your thoughts on natural, kinky hair at the office?  What about wigs, dreadlocks, cornrows, braids — is anything off limits in the corporate environment?

(L-0)

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Button-down blouses can be great — if they fit you and don’t gape in the bust.  Some companies specialize in creating non-gaping versions for larger-busted women (e.g., Carissa Rose, Rebecca & Drew) but sometimes you just want a DIY fix for a shirt you’ve already got.  Today’s guest poster Kathryn Rubino — one of my personal friends — is a plus-sized fashionable overachieving chick who has some crafty suggestions for fixing the problem. (She also posted a few weeks ago about how to get a great-fitting blazer.) – Kat

We’ve all been there. You’re getting ready for that big interview/meeting/presentation and as you look yourself dead-on in the mirror you are the image of professionalism. As you reach for the straightener to put the finishing touch on your perfectly coiffed hair there it is. It’s your bra. Peeking out from that infuriating gap in your button-down shirt. It almost seems like it is mocking you, “maybe you aren’t as put together as you think you are.” It is maddening. So, how do you deal with this problem? I’ve tried all the work-arounds. The camisole under an unbuttoned button-down. A wrap-style dress shirt. A button-down that is deliberately ruched at the bust. And these are all pretty good solutions, but sometimes I yearn for the simplicity of the classic button down. So this plus size writer test drove three potential solutions to the problem. Obviously, your mileage may vary, but here’s how they worked for me.  (Pictured: Mind the Gap, originally uploaded to Flickr by toastbrot81.)

1. Sewing. This seemed like the most professional option. It was easy enough to find matching thread in a travel sewing kit I had from my last stay at a fancy-pants hotel. Okay, it was a white shirt so that wasn’t too difficult a task, but Amazon has some options that seem pretty comprehensive at under $10. I found it pretty straight forward to lightly tack the gap closed with a small x-shaped stitch, though more time consuming than other options. I found I didn’t have to worry about it too much throughout the day and I felt super strong ripping out the stitches with my bare hands at the end of the day.

2. Taping. This seemed like the easiest option. Just use Hollywood Fashion Tape (or other pre-cut double-sided tape) to lock down the gap. And it was easy! I just worried over the tape peeling away throughout the day. While I never had any major mishaps I did have to subtly press down on the gap to re-stick my shirt together several times throughout the day. I would probably continue to use this for finer fabrics I worry about putting holes in, but it would not be my first choice for cotton shirts. One tip that I haven’t tried, but I received from a few friends in the costume industry is toupee tape. It may sound silly but I am assured that it holds better and is generally cheaper then the other options.

3. Pinning. This seemed like the most familiar option. It feels like I am forever pinning closed low cut dresses or gaping shirts. And I know it works, I just hate the tell-tale glint of silver at my chest. Then I found these. Black and white safety pins. (Jo-Ann’s actually caries them in a variety of colors; so does Amazon.) For me, this is the perfect combination of lazy and effective. I didn’t worry over the gap throughout the day, and I loved that I could re-use the pins. But if you can’t location these little gems, or your gap emergency happens before the two day shipping arrives I still prefer the pinning option. Usually button-downs will have an extra fold down of fabric along the button line and you can use this underside of material to keep your shirt closed without a pin showing through. I also prefer smaller pins, and I attach them upside down (so that the closure points toward my feet) as that helps to disguise the usage of the pin.

Readers, do you consider gaping blouses one of your big problems?  What has your solution been?

(L-4)

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I’ve had my share of wardrobe malfunctions at the office — as I’m sure all professional women have! Today’s guest poster, Kai Falkenberg, shares one of her personal doozies. (Kai was also good enough to share her favorite wedges for Fall 2011 — the perfect commuting shoes.) Thank you, Kai! – Kat. (Photo Credit: Lulu Vision.)

As the newsroom lawyer for Forbes magazine, I try to dress like the editors and journalists that I advise. “They’re more likely to accept your advice if they think you’re one of them.” That’s what I was told by a panel of entertainment lawyers years ago who also said to leave the law school diplomas at home when you move in house. But there’s quite a range of attire among the editorial team here at Forbes. A good number of them wear jackets and ties, but jeans are common too and even Birkenstocks. Some are known for their unusual wardrobe choices. Our letters editor regularly shows off his collection of Aloha shirts and his bold printed pants which he buys from this aptly named site. A copy editor occasionally wears fuzzy pink bunny ears – even while working out in the office gym – and not on Halloween. That said, the majority of folk in the newsroom stick to tailored business casual and generally I try to choose clothes that put me squarely in that group.

Occasionally, however, I push the envelope and recently that led to what I’ll call euphemistically “an undesirable outcome.” When it comes to dresses I typically wear shifts that are tailored and structured. But on a shopping outing a few months ago, I spied a loose fitting silk dress at Zara that satisfied two of my obsessions: python prints and bargains. Bargain hunting is, of course, a perennial obsession but the python thing has been with me for a while as well. I’m embarrassed to say how many snakeskin print items I actually own though I will reveal that even my new iPhone has fallen victim to the obsession.  So I scooped up the dress for $68 and wore it to work the next week.

I was reviewing a story with two male editors when one, standing behind me, signaled me to come closer and pointed at my dress. I thought I was about to receive a compliment. Instead he whispered, “Your dress is split down the back. I mean all the way down. Just thought you’d like to know.” “Oh,” I said and retreated to my office, speedily. Fortunately, I had a spare jacket hanging on my door – for those unexpected court appearances that never actually occur. Luckily, the jacket was long enough to cover my rear end and I made it through the day without flashing anyone else. The dress is in the dumpster now but a lesson was certainly learned. You get what you pay for. There’s a reason that dresses with lining cost more – and now I admit, it’s actually worth it.

Has something like this happened to anyone else at work? Please do share so that I’m not the only one baring all…

(Kat: For my $.02, I remember buying my first DvF dress, which I’d seen Lorelai wear on Gilmore Girls.  Great dress, and Lorelai didn’t need a camisole with it.  I’m proudly strutting around the office in it and go to my first meeting of the day, fortunately with two women lawyers.  As soon as I look down at my notepad, there it is: my entire bra, peeking out from beneath my dress.  FUN. At my first opportunity I rushed back to my office for a black scarf that I kept in the office, tucking it into the dress like a half-attempt at a blouse — an imperfect fix for sure!)

(L-0)

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We’ve talked a bit about tailoring, but what are the top alterations you should be thinking about with a suit?  Today’s guest poster, Jean from ExtraPetite, was nice enough to write up her guide to suiting alterations at the tailor, including fit tips, estimated cost, difficulty level, and more.  Enjoy! – Kat

For many professional women, suit shopping can be a daunting task. Our bodies are unique and varied, so it’s tough to find a perfect fit right off the racks of mainstream retailers. A good tailor can take that store-bought suit to the next level – from a decent suit, to a power suit that will help you exude confidence and class.

Whether it’s a tiny tweak or a major overhaul – I’ve done it all. I’m here to share my alterations guide with fellow women who are walking around in a less-than perfectly fitting suit.

Blazers
Taking-in Shoulders
Fit tips: Your blazer should be fitted across your shoulders, but not stretched taught. There should be ample room to lift/move your arms around without pulling on the jacket. The shoulder seam of the blazer should also not jut out past your own shoulders. Taking in the shoulders of a jacket is best done by a skilled tailor, preferably one that has worked with custom suiting.
Alteration Cost: $40+
Difficulty level: High

Altering the Sides
Fit tips: If you are curvy, shop for jackets that accommodate your widest point –whether it’s your shoulders or chest—and then have areas like the waist tailored down to fit. When fully buttoned and worn over a long sleeve shirt, a blazer should graze your torso. It should not be snug, and the front buttons should show no signs of pulling. Jackets typically should not be taken-in or let out more than 1 dress size (if there is even enough fabric at the seams), as the garment proportions can be thrown off.
Alteration Cost: $25+
Difficulty level: Medium.

Altering Blazer Length
Fit tips: This is a difficult alteration that I try to avoid while shopping for blazers. Anything longer than the hipbones may risk truncating your legs. Shorter-legged women can benefit from cropped length blazers. Longer-length “boyfriend” blazers that hit in the upper thigh area are chic over jeans and dresses, but less appropriate for professional environments.
Alteration Cost: $40+, depends on lining and complexity.
Difficulty level: High. My tailors flat-out refused to alter the length of my blazers.

Altering Sleeve Length
Fit tips: My personal preference for sleeve length is an inch past the wrist bone when arms are resting naturally. When getting fitted at the tailors, raise your arms to chest level to make sure the new length won’t be too short.
Alteration Cost: ~$25.
Difficulty level: Low, unless there are sleeve vents and/or button details.

Skirts & Pants
Altering the Waist/Hips
Fit tips – Skirts: For women who have equally proportioned torso and legs, skirts tend to look best starting at the natural waist (I use my belly button as a reference). For women with shorter torsos, the skirt can sit lower on the hips to balance out the proportions. For women with longer torsos, a higher-waisted skirt may be more flattering.
Fit tips – Pants: If only tiny tweaks are needed, the tailor can make the alterations from the back center seam. If more than half an inch needs to be altered, then the tailor should work from both sides to preserve the proportions of the pants.
Alteration Cost: ~$25
Difficulty level: Medium, dependent on details such as side pockets, a side zipper, or seams and pleats.

Pants – Tailoring the Legs
Fit tips: Shop for bottoms that accommodate the width of your thighs, and get the waist taken in, if necessary. A common issue I observe on women are pants that are too snug across the crotch and thighs, which causes pulling and creases. If you are petite on the bottom and tend to swim in your pants, have a tailor slim the legs and taper them to your curves.
Alteration Cost: $25
Difficulty level: Medium, dependent on details such as side pockets, a side zipper, or seams and pleats.

Hem
Fit tips – Skirts: If your thighs are longer than your calves, above-the-knee may be more flattering. If you are long-calved, then you can probably pull off at or below-the-knee skirts.
Fit tips – Pants: Bring your favorite heels to the tailors. With shoes on, pant length should be approximately an inch from the ground. Too long will drag, and too short will break the lengthening effect of long pants.
Alteration Cost: $10+, more if there’s lining.
Difficulty level: Easy

Check out more of Jean’s thoughts on alterations on her blog, ExtraPetite!

Readers, what alterations do you have your tailors make? Any fun stories (of success or disaster) to share?

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The perfect fit for a plus-size blazer can be elusive, so I’m thrilled to introduce today’s anonymous guest poster.  In addition to being a plus-sized overachieving chick, I’m proud to count her among my most fashionable friends. (Pictured below: Sejour “Broken Plaid” Jacket (Plus), available at Nordstrom for $128.) – Kat

The search for the perfect blazer is age old, and for those of us on the plus-size side the issue can be compounded. (This writer has clothes between sizes 16 and 22 in her closet, though, at the moment, I’m lucky enough to be on the lower end of my personal spectrum.) So what’s a girl to do? Tailoring is a great way to turn an unflattering, boxy jacket into a noteworthy wardrobe staple. Below are some tips to get the best fit out of your blazer.

- Darts are your friends! Darts are tapered tucks that can be sewn into your jacket to adjust the fit, and are particularly useful if you are going up a size to get better coverage up top if your body still nips in at the waist.

- The shoulder is key. One of the most difficult alterations (read: expensive) is changing the shoulder seam, so make sure that a jacket hits you on the shoulder–not on your arm. You may not consciously realize it, but a proper shoulder makes a jacket look polished and professional.

- Be comfortable. If you find the jacket ill-fitting or tight in places this fact will come through in the hundred little gestures and faces you make throughout the day. I often have the tailor remove the lining on the arms of my blazers so it doesn’t feel as constricting and my range of motion isn’t limited. You can also slit the seams of the lining yourself if the primary problem with a blazer is tightness in the arms.

- Sleeve perfection. The proper length of a full-sleeved jacket can be vexing, but I’ve found somewhere between the top of your hand and where your thumb bone starts to look the most “right”. Any longer than that can make the blazer look sloppy and gets in the way.
-Mind your buttons. It may be true that a good blazer is like a good friend, but nothing says “this jacket has seen both sides of one too many crash diets” than missing or frayed buttons. Get your buttons replaced and/or reinforced. It is fairly inexpensive (and is an easy enough skill to learn for those DIYers) and most importantly, it keeps you looking like the well put together, overachieving woman you are!

One final note, when you find the perfect blazer there is a tendency to use it . . . a lot. That’s completely understandable but it is truly terrible when the center back seam (or any seam) of a blazer has stitches that are pulling (when they look further apart then they should be). This comes from wear and tear, and sometimes, ill fit. If you see this on your blazer, call it. Retire the piece, mourn its loss and start the search for a new one. As a bigger girl you don’t want your clothes to look like they may give out on you at any second, particularly in a professional setting.

Readers — of all sizes! — what have you found are the best tips for getting a blazer to fit properly?  What do you most frequently ask your tailor to do?

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Leather skirts: classics — or classic mistakes? I’ve noticed some great leather skirts in stores lately, some of which could very well work for some offices. But are they appropriate? Too dated?  Too sexy? Too casual?  I thought we’d take a poll.

Here’s my $.02: Leather, like animal print, can be a little wild — but also like animal print it’s a classic, and a well-fitting, quality leather skirt in a classic shape can be worn for years to come. Imagine an outfit that plays with textures — a corduroy or tweed blazer, maybe a silk top, and then suede pumps — that could be amazing for the office, and the leather skirt could be just the right touch of “rocker chic” to really elevate the outfit. I think styling is key, though — you both want to avoid looking like someone out of the 80s (say, by mixing black fishnets and huge platform heels with a leopard print top) as well as someone who is just killing time at the office until your rockstar ship comes in and you’re ushered off on your world tour. I would also say that quality is key here — if you’re going to go for a leather skirt, go for an actual leather (not pleather) that has been finished well and will stand the test of time.

Readers, what are your thoughts?

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