Jewelry

Reader D has a unique question: what to wear in the field?  More specifically, to visit a factory (and ride in her client’s plane!)

I am going on a site visit to a factory near Seattle.  The visit includes riding in a small plane and then visiting a large factory so I will need to be casual, wear flat comfortable shoes, yet still look professional.  Any advice?  Although I am a senior associate I will be the sole representative for my client and want to make sure I come off as professional as possible.

Congratulations on the opportunity — it sounds fun (riding in a private plane is on my Bucket List) and like a good career opportunity. As far as fashion goes, I think my answer depends on one question: can you wear denim around your client? If so, I think a pair of dark (preferably black) jeggings, tucked into flat boots, topped with a button-front and blazer, and accessorized with your normal work jewelry, would probably be my best guess for an outfit. (Update:  There’s a lot of disagreement with me in the comments, which is fine, but just to be clear: when I say “jeggings” — I mean skinny  jeans that have a bit of extra Spandex in them to make them more comfortable, but are still primarily denim.  E.g., these, these, or these. Not these.)  Here’s my thinking:

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How do you know when to splurge on a piece of jewelry?  A big step in the right direction involves understanding the jewelry terminology (it’s also helpful if you suspect you’re allergic to some jewelry!) Today’s guest post explores just that.  Author “Kanye East” is an attorney at law, New York City ex-pat, sarcastic Corporette commenter, and amateur metalsmith. On the rare occasions she leaves the office, Ms. East slays dragons and makes jewelry with their treasures.  (Pictured:  Mallarino Alejandra 24-karat gold-vermeil cuff, available at Net-a-Porter for $1,600.)

I’ll be honest: the first time I saw the phrase “gold vermeil,” I thought something like Oooh, that sounds French. It must be fancy! And only $80? For a fancy gold necklace? Steal! I’d better buy two! My friends, I am ashamed. It turns out “vermeil” is fancy—a fancy way of saying “plated.”

Jewelry is my weakness. For lawyers, jewelry is the one part of a professional wardrobe that’s allowed to be expressive or artistic. (My fellow liberal arts undergrads who reluctantly went to law school for the promise of health insurance and a steady paycheck will understand how important this can be to one’s psyche.) Jewelry can elevate an otherwise ordinary outfit to a commanding ensemble. And my own field research confirms that if you wear the same black dress to a law firm job two days in a row but swap one eye-catching statement necklace for another, nobody will notice the fact that you wore the same clothes two days in a row.

With that said, the amount I have overpaid for poor-quality pieces over the years is staggering. To avoid my mistakes, please follow my Rule Number One: know what you’re buying. You don’t have to get your gemologist’s certification and I’m not talking engagement-ring-caliber research, but here are some basics.

Fine jewelry incorporates precious metals (gold, platinum), precious and semi-precious gemstones, and genuine pearls (not glass or crystal pearls, or “shell pearls,” which are actually beads made from mother of pearl or shell, but more about that another time.) Expect to pay more for the design and the materials, especially because the price of gold has been at all-time highs lately.

Fashion jewelry is made mostly with base metals, usually brass, copper, or nickel (a common allergen). Sometimes the base metal is covered with a layer of precious metal—this is where you really need to know what you’re buying. Plating involves a very small amount of precious metal; it’s easy to scrape or rub off, and if you wear a plated piece every day, it’s going to tarnish quickly. Don’t ever pay high prices for plated metals, and avoid them if you have metal sensitivities.

Gold vermeil is simply gold plating over sterling silver. Better than plated gold over base metal, but it’s still going to tarnish.

Filled gold or gold overlay sounds like plating but it’s far superior and worth paying more for. It has a higher gold content, is stronger, and resists tarnish much better than plating. For the price, it’s a great alternative to solid gold for everyday wear.

Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% base metal. Sometimes you’ll see “925” stamped on silver jewelry: this is usually a jeweler’s certification that the piece is made with sterling silver. If you’re sensitive to metals, you should probably avoid sterling silver, but know that it’s the 7.5% base metal you’re probably reacting to, not the silver. On that note, those with metal sensitivities should also avoid white gold, which is typically alloyed with small amounts of nickel, manganese or palladium.

Argentium® Silver is gaining popularity among jewelry makers; it contains more germanium than traditional alloys, is highly tarnish-resistant, and requires almost no polishing.

Fine silver is pure silver with no base metal, but due to its softness, you don’t often see fine silver jewelry.

Now get out there and stimulate the economy!

(L-2)

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New Office-2, originally uploaded to Flickr by akeg.Since she’s started at a more casual office, Reader L wonders how she should transition her wardrobe of blazers and pencil skirts to an office filled with jeans and sneakers.

I’m 24 and recently left a paralegal job at a small litigation firm for a research and editing job at a large publishing company. The new job is great and a much better fit for me but I’m still struggling with the transition to the more casual attire I’m seeing in my young, tech-centered office. I see jeans and gross sneakers every day of the week, which clashes with my wardrobe of pencil skirts and blazers. Even when I try to tone it down, the basics in my closet just aren’t in the same spectrum. I’ve tried to pay attention to what the seniormost woman in my office wears, but there are a LOT of pay grades between a manager and someone in my entry-level position.

I really want to stand out, make an impression and start advancing. At the same time, I don’t want to look like I’m trying too hard or oblivious to office culture. My question is: is it more important to dress in a way that feels professional and appropriate (and, to be selfish, much more comfortable for me) or to mimic the people around me? If it’s the latter, any tips on looking sharp and competent when dressed down?

Great, great question, because it can be really tricky to transition your wardrobe. Here are some of my tips, but readers, I hope you’ll weigh in!  (Pictured: New Office-2, originally uploaded to Flickr by akeg.)

First: I think it’s important to be comfortable. If you’re a blazer-and-pencil skirts kind of girl, don’t feel like you have to wear “gross sneakers” just to fit in. That said, your instinct to watch the most senior women in your office is spot on — whose job do you want to have in 2 years? in 5 years? One of the most important things to pay attention to is what those role models/mentors are saying (or trying to say) with their clothes. Is it that they’re detail-oriented? Creative? Different jobs require different qualities, and the people who succeed in publishing may be different than the people who succeed in a law firm.  If your wardrobe is classic, buttoned-up conservative, I think the only risk you should be aware of is that, depending on your personality, you may come across as someone who is mousy and lacks personality — or you may come across as someone who is bossy or rigid.  Make sure that your clothing projects the qualities that are recognized for success in this field.

There are a few ways you can take a more buttoned-up wardrobe to a more casual, creative look… some suggestions:

  • Get a great pair of jeans.  Look for a dark blue wash with very little distressing, and see how you feel about incorporating the jeans into your more conservative wardrobe.  Try wearing them with a structured, fitted blazer, or with a button-front blouse.  (Trouser jeans may be the perfect place for you to start, or even regular trousers that are made from a denim material.)
  • Look at the “weekend wear” for the shops you already frequent.  If you’re a fan of, say, Ann Taylor, Talbots, and J.Crew, they have lots of pieces that are more relaxed.  While they might not be appropriate for a conservative office, the more relaxed looks from these stores might offer great “bridge” pieces between your old wardrobe and your new one.  If you were really a devotee of a particular store, see if they can connect you with a personal shopper to help integrate your old pieces and your new ones.
  • Have fun with your accessories.  Whereas conservative offices generally encourage small, tasteful jewelry (in the best metals, featuring real gemstones), your new office may give you more leeway.  If you’re in a creative office, an easy place to start looking for “creative” necklaces is museum stores — I’ve bought a number of pieces from MomaStore.org over the years, and the quality has always been pretty good for the price.  Once you have a better idea what you like, Etsy stores and local boutiques can be a great way to get interesting jewelry that expresses who you are.
  • Similarly, reassess your shoes.  I think a pencil skirt and a pair of classic pumps will always be in style, no matter where you go, but a more casual office may permit you to wear different colors and patterns than you would have worn to a law firm, and you may even find that funkier brands appeal to you (I’m thinking of things like Miz Mooz or Tsubo here, but there are so many!).
  • Consider wearing the basics in your wardrobe in new, more relaxed ways.  For example, a button-front shirt may look great worn open and untucked with a camisole beneath it — or you may find that a blazer that has a fun lining looks chic with the sleeves rolled up.  More casual pieces that languished in your closet until a casual Friday — such as a flyaway cardigan — may be just the thing to pair with a structured piece like a sheath dress.

Whenever anyone goes through a style reassessment — which everyone should do from time to time! — I think it’s great to find someone in the public eye, who has your body shape, and whose style you admire.  What pieces work for her?  (If it’s an actress it can be particularly fun to watch her personal style versus her character’s styles, and see how her clothes differ from role to role — but also how they stay the same.)  Keep track of which outfits you really adore, and use those for inspiration.  As I mentioned above, a personal shopper is another way to go, and most department stores offer a shopper’s services free of charge.  (Just make sure you have a good idea of what you already want so you don’t end up purchasing a lot of things that aren’t really part of your new style.)

Readers, what are your tips for transitioning a conservative work wardrobe to a more casual one?

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Tomboy Shorts, originally uploaded to Flickr by FredoAlvarezReader A thinks her look is too “tomboy” for the office…

I am writing to you in hopes for some advice on how to change from a “tom boy look” to a mid-level executive in a financial institution.

I know that your blog is mostly geared toward New York lawyers, but while I am neither of those (Dallas, Tx – Financial Analyst), I am confident that you can help. A little bit of background…I grew up in a very small town climbing trees and playing with boys. In college, my dress attire was jeans and over-sized T-shirts. It wasn’t until my senior year that I started wearing T-shirts that fit.

Making the transition from college life to financial institution was a little easy back home, (South Texas/Rio Grande Valley), but now that I reside in Dallas, I feel that my current wardrobe isn’t cutting it. My current attire is grey slacks and a button down or simple one-tone blouse. While I mentioned my basic attire, please note that I own about 2 pairs of slacks/dress pants (black and grey) and 2 button downs (purple and maroon).

I have a pair of black shoes and I wear those with black dress socks.

I have never been a “girly-girl” (not that I am opposed to it), but I have always lacked the ability to match colors and styles without looking hideous.

This is a great question, A.  What you’re wearing doesn’t sound so bad to me (albeit a bit boring, but there’s nothing unprofessional about that), but the vibe I’m getting from your email is that you don’t feel elegant, feminine, or sophisticated.  I think it’s important to distinguish unprofessional attire from attire that isn’t elegant/feminine/sophisticated — there have been a lot of very, very successful women who wore nothing but boxy suits, had masculine haircuts, and wore clunky heels (or flats).  In fact, to a lot of older people (both men and women) that is the best way to convey that you’re serious about your job.  (I was just reading a comment on an older post about whether long hair is appropriate — the reader noted that when she ran for office, no one took her seriously until she cut her mid-back-length hair into a Hilary Clinton cut.)  (Pictured: Tomboy Shorts, originally uploaded to Flickr by FredoAlvarez.) [click to continue…]

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Acadia Ring Emerald-Cut Diamond Platinum Ring This should be a fun conversation. Reader S wonders what size diamond ring is appropriate for a professional woman…

What size wedding ring/engagement ring is appropriate for a professional office? Personally, I think giant rings are gaudy and tacky. But I overheard a couple of attorneys saying the other day “”Do you ever see a friend posting pictures on facebook about her recent engagement and when you see her ring, you think to yourself ‘oh, honey, I’m so sorry!’”" so I guess rings can be too small as well. What size will keep you safe from the gossip?

I’m glad she asked this question, because I remember some of the comments turned to engagement rings in our conversation on the intern with the Hermes handbag, and there were some fascinating differences of opinion in there. For my $.02, I think that any size ring is appropriate for a professional office, provided that the ring is actually an engagement ring, and not a cocktail ring worn as an engagement ring. (Engagement rings are fairly simple, in part because they’re intended to be worn on a daily basis. Diamond cocktail rings (full disclosure: I own one, love it, and wear it a ton) can be gorgeous, but they’re often bigger (either in length, width, or height), sparklier, and to a certain extent, gaudier, than what an engagement ring is; they should be worn only when the occasion calls for it. I’m right handed, so I like to wear mine on the middle finger of my right hand, particularly if I’m attending a cocktail event where I’ll be holding a glass with my right hand.)  I will say, though, to those of you looking to get engaged, pass this tip on to your soon-to-be fiance: don’t go into debt to buy an engagement ring.  You can always add to the ring later, either by adding diamonds to it as baguettes, by “upgrading” your diamonds (from a less-clear one to a clearer one), or so forth.  (Pictured above:  Acadia Ring Emerald-Cut Diamond Platinum Ring , available at Gemvara for $61,297, also available in combinations of white gold, yellow gold, and almost any other gemstone (for a huge range of prices) — just click “customize”.)

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Surprise, South Lambeth, SW8, originally uploaded to Flickr by Ewan-MReader S has a question about which wardrobe items become surprise basics for the working woman…

Would love to hear you and readers share which pieces have unexpectedly come into your regular wardrobe rotation. For example, I know that you’ve found purple pumps to be quite versatile. Now that many of us have found the classic basics, what are some pieces that you have found to be surprise basics?

Great question! Personally, I find that there is little way to predict what will be a favorite — it depends on how an item wears, what surprises it holds (how low does that neckline go if you lean forward?), and how it fits after you’ve laundered it at least once.  Still — there have been a few unexpected basics in my working wardrobe, including purple pumps, as reader S correctly points out.  (Pictured: Surprise, South Lambeth, SW8, originally uploaded to Flickr by Ewan-M.) Other things that might not be on every woman’s must-have list of items, but are items I’ve never regretted purchasing:

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