Suit of the Week: Kooples

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women interview suit For busy working women, the suit is often the easiest outfit to throw on in the morning. In general, this feature is not about interview suits for women, which should be as classic and basic as you get — instead, this feature is about the slightly different suit that is fashionable, yet professional. I'll admit, I'm not a huge fan of the styling with the shoes (although these oxfords might be nice if you like the look; kitten heels or sleeker flats if you don't), but I like the simplicity but modernity of this suit from The Kooples. The blazer has double vents, three welt pockets, and is lined; the pants also have slant pockets on the hip and welt pockets in back. The blazer (The Kooples Timeless Suit Jacket) is $470, and the pants (The Kooples Timeless Suit Trousers) are $240. Psst: Like everyone else, ShopBop is starting their Labor Day sales early, with tons of new additions to their sale section. Look for great discounts on brands like Black Halo, Smythe, Theory, Rebecca Minkoff, and some of their in-house line of Bop Basics; of course, there's also a great selection of denim and an amazing jewelry collection. (Pro tip: if looking up particular brands, sort by price low to high to see the sale stuff first.) (L-all)

Sales of note for 2/7/25:

  • Nordstrom – Winter Sale, up to 60% off! 7850 new markdowns for women
  • Ann Taylor – Extra 25% off your $175+ purchase — and $30 of full-price pants and denim
  • Banana Republic Factory – Up to 50% off everything + extra 15% off
  • Boden – 15% off new season styles
  • Eloquii – 60% off 100s of styles
  • J.Crew – Extra 50% off all sale styles
  • J.Crew Factory – 40% off everything including new arrivals + extra 20% off $125+
  • Rothy's – Final Few: Up to 40% off last-chance styles
  • Spanx – Lots of workwear on sale, some up to 70% off
  • Talbots – 40% off one item + free shipping on $150+

And some of our latest threadjacks here at Corporette (reader questions and commentary) — see more here!

Some of our latest threadjacks include:

81 Comments

  1. Yay! I love the Kooples blazer b/c it has DOUBEL VENTS, which, unlike a single vent, does NOT show your tuchus off to the world. I have found that a single vent in the back tends to accentueate the tuchus, and gives guy’s a free cheep way to grab your tuchus and then claim they were used to clamdigging. FOOEY on men that just want to get there hand’s on our tuchuses (or tuchii, as the case may be!). In my line of work, men regularly paw at my tuchus, usueally on the subway, but even Frank gets his hands where they do NOT belong. FOOEY on Frank for thinkeing that our tuchii are fair game for his dirty hands. HE is MARRIED and I am sure his wife does NOT rent his hand’s out to the highest bidder.

    Kat, please try to find suits with skirt’s rather then pant’s. I would like to wear pant’s, particularly in the winter, but it id VERBOTTEN, Frank says. I think Frank just wants to have a few tuchii to grab, and if my tuchus is there, he has the pick of the lot. YAY!!!!

  2. I am seriously considering rescuing a dog from a shelter, but I want to make sure I am considering everything I should be. I am single and live in a condo in downtown DC. I work for the gov’t with pretty good hours, although I enjoy doing things after work, whether that’s exercise classes or occasional drinks with friends. I would not get a puppy; I’m looking at dogs around one-year old.

    There are financial considerations, like dog walking fees, pet food, etc. There’s also the issue of leaving the dog at home during the day, although most Fridays I am home. What else should I be thinking about? Thanks!

    1. (a) Are dogs allowed or do you own? (b) Even if allowed or you own, are you comfortable with the idea that even a one-year old will likely tear up some things, especially floors? (c) You mention financial considerations, but you don’t include vet fees in there. Even for a healthy animal, the yearly vet costs are ~$400 in my mid-sized city. (d) You need backup care – a pet-sitter or boarding place – when you travel. I always seem to forget that one. Which can be especially hard if you travel for all the major holidays or travel often for work.

      1. I own and dogs are allowed. Yeah, I know financial considerations entail more than my list, but helpful to have that ballpark for vet bills. I have a friend with a dog who is up for pet-sitting and otherwise would board.

        The floors issue is something I hadn’t really thought about. I’m putting in new floors basically as we speak. Hmm. Any way to mitigate that damage?

        1. Also, you should always have a bit available for the vet emergencies. Especially with a 1-yr old, it is not uncommon for the dog to eat something they shouldn’t (or be acting funny enough to have you thinking they did) and those trips are not inexpensive!

          As for the floors, I’ve never seen a good solution. I’ve avoided having my dog truly tear up carpet or anything (in large part to crate training/lack of opportunity), but my wood floors are all scratched up. I guess I could have put larger rugs down, but sometimes she throws up or has an accident (rare now, but can happen) and I’m happy for the wood instead of a rug.

        2. Same as Care, I’ve never found a good solution for tearing up wood floors, beyond just putting down carpets/runners on top. If you’re putting in new floors, I suppose you could ask if there is some kind of special sealing. I’ve just surrendered to the idea that I am replacing or refinishing post-dog/pre-selling.

          1. Oh, and if you do put down carpets, be forewarned – somehow, the dog will always decide to puke/poop on the carpet, rather than the hardwood or tile. Murphy’s Law.

        3. The easiest way to keep wood floors in good shape is to keep the dog’s nails in good shape. They’re usually sharper right after trimming, so a good walk on pavement will round them down a bit. And then, be sure no little stones come in between their pawpads and you really should be OK. I’ve done more of the damage to my wood floors than my multiple dogs ever did.

          1. And also, uh, don’t throw a tennis ball for your dog in the house. #guiltyascharged

            I’m one of those “I have a big, active dog and my house will reflect that so why fight it” types of people, though. I keep it as clean as I can, and super organized, but there is dog hair on the sofa (where he sits) and the floors will always be scratched up.

          2. You can also get a small grinder made specifically for dog’s nails, which you use to sand down your dog’s nails instead of cutting them, which will leave them smooth. It does take some time, patience, and lots of treats to train your dog to tolerate this, though!

          3. You can also use a Dremel on your dog’s nails. As long as you use the right sanding attachment and don’t stay too long in one spot (because it’s not painful, but can generate warmth), it’s SO much easier than the guillotine-style tools the pet store sells — and multipurpose!

            Running and playing on concrete also helps.

        4. Since your planned pet-sitter has a dog of her own, make sure you explicitly ask the shelter for a dog-friendly dog – also, in general, in a city, I think your life as a dog-owner will go more smoothly with a generally dog-friendly dog. That’s not to say dog-averse or dog-aggressive dogs can’t be perfectly lovely city dogs, but if this is the first time you’ve owned a dog on your own, having a dog-friendly dog will make things easier generally.

        5. Hand-scraped hardwood floors – they’re supposed to look scratched and “weathered.” We have 6 dogs (outing myself for sure), and the floors are dark wood, 9 years old, and don’t show any wear.

    2. To put a $$ on costs, I have a large breed dog and we pay for daily dog walking ($17/day) Monday through Friday, plus the occasional evening walk if we won’t be home for dinner. She also takes care of him when we’re out of town (so multiple walks on those days). I estimate we spend approximately $6,000/year for dog walking (which includes when we are out of town, since the dog and cat stay in our place and she comes to them – we would revisit this if we were to take a trip longer than about 5 days).

      Vet is approximately $500 year for a healthy dog (including monthly flea/heartworm). Food is about $700-800 year.

      He is our single biggest expense after housing and student loans, but I wouldn’t have it any other way :)

      1. Helpful, thanks! $6,000 does seem like a big chunk of change. On the other hand, I’m sure it’s extremely rewarding. I had a family dog growing up, and would like to have a dog again.

        1. If you have a low-energy dog, you may not need as much dog walking. Until my dog turned 1, I tried to have someone check on her every day at lunch, but after the first year, she’s been ok. I’m always amused when I try to get home early to let her out to play and all she wants to do is sleep. She probably has more bouts of hyperactivity at night than a dog who is walked would have, but I play with her a lot when they happen/walk her as soon as I get home if she’s been put up extra long.

    3. I cannot recommend Lucky Dog rescue enough in DC, they will help walk you through all these kinds of questions as well!

      1. Yes yes yes! My now former roommate’s dog is a Lucky Dog and she had a great experience. And he was AWESOME. Have had at least two other friends adopt through them. Also, I hear good things about operation paws for homes.

    4. Here is my advice, single working professional with a dog. Look for the laziest dog at the rescue. I swear, it makes all the difference in destructive tendencies and guilt over working. If I come home midway through the day to check on him 9 times out of 10 he is sound asleep in front of the AC unit and acts as though I have disturbed his routine. He is a 50lb shepherd mix to give you some perspective. We go for one long walk a day, which he loves, but if we make a mile he is dragging. And has been like this pretty much since I got him at 4 month (he is now 8). He was the puppy who literally crawled in to my lap and stayed there, while the others all explored the room.

      I see a lot of people get little dogs thinking it makes more sense for small spaces, when in reality a bigger lazier dog may fit better in to your lifestyle. Just my 2 cents :)

      1. I am totally totally pro-rescue, so don’t take this the wrong way, but to the extent you get the “laziest” dog at a lot of shelters (IME, the municipality run shelters, not the breed specific ones necessarily), that may just mean you are getting an ill animal that hasn’t been diagnosed or treated. Signed, the girl who choose the sweet, lazy boy who ended up having Parvo and who had to shell out $1200 for treatment before she’d even bought him the first bag of food. I love my little boy, but be careful.

        1. I guess, I should clarify, look for lower energy breeds. Don’t be like my friends and get a boxer or jack russell then live in an apt and not understand why its freaking out and eating your entire home. And 100% look for reputable shelters that run all their animals past a vet before they go out the door. Unfortunately the municipal and high turnover shelters don’t always do that, and you can definitely end up with a surprise problem.

          I’ve actually been told Greyhounds make awesome apt dogs if you have access to a dog run. They really just want to do one all out run, then lay around the rest of the day :)

          1. YES to greyhounds!! My husband and I had one in a loft apartment, and he was so great. We actually took him for a couple of 15 minute walks every day, and then to the dog park for a full-out sprint a couple of times each week. He was very happy and the sweetest dog you’d ever meet. He’d just lie on the couch all day when we weren’t home. We got him from a greyhound rescue group that placed them after their racing careers were over.

            Some greyhounds do have separation anxiety, which means they would have a very difficult time being left alone in an apartment and might tear it up. But the rescue group should be able to help you find one that is not like that.

          2. Yesyesyes know your breed. It always shocks me when city dwellers get a high energy breed/one that needs a LOT of exercise and then are shocked when it wrecks the apartment. Really take time to get to know the dog. And I agree that some dogs don’t need the mid-day walk – the first few weeks we had my rescue we paid for a dogwalker and then she told us she really didn’t think it was necessary. Our dog is more than happy to go 10+ hours without a walk.

          3. LOL Jack Russell Terrier = JRTerrorist At least that’s what we call her at my house.

    5. I volunteer both with a rescue and at our local humane society. Per the very reputable humane society I volunteer with, most adult dogs are fine in a kennel (or at home without an accident) for 8-9 hours a day. Our dogs can stay home that long and we never come home to accidents unless they are sick (something else to consider – when they get sick there will be a mess). We try to make sure either my husband or I am home in the evenings, but there are evenings where we come home to let them out and feed them and then have to immediately leave until 9 pm or so. If it is a rare occurrence (rather than your usual schedule) your dog will be fine. As far as cost – the other posters covered vet bills, but also food and flea/tick/heartworm preventatives (these can add up if you have a big dog).

    6. We rescued our pooch from WARL. Keep in mind that some 1 year old dogs are still VERY active. Ours was 9 months old when we adopted her and is almost 2 now but it still acting like a puppy. What has worked for us is to walk her in the morning and right away when we get home. On days when we will be out later, we’ll have a dog walker come over. We also try to take her to doggie daycare once a week (Wagtime) to burn off excess energy and to let her socialize with other dogs. We failed at crate training but initially limited her to the kitchen by blocking off access to other rooms with baby gates. As she got older, we gave her more space and now she has the entire downstairs.

    7. You should also consider teleworking or taking a few days of leave when you first bring the dog home, and then leaving and coming back a couple of times during the day so the dog gets used to the idea that you come back when you leave. Different dogs handle change and separation anxiety differently.

      Also a good idea to figure out your building’s noise policy in case your dog barks during the day when you’re gone and neighbors complain.

    8. We spent $10,000 on vet bills for our dog in the last month and she’s still pretty young (5 yrs old). So I think $6,000 a year is a pretty conservative estimate for how much you’ll spend. But it’s the best money we spend and we’d do anything to keep her healthy.
      Good for you for rescuing and for looking at older dogs!

      1. Even booster shots can be expensive – I spent $300 on shots last time I was at the vet. But I pay for convenience. I’ve heard here in DC, there are organizations that have “free shots” days, so maybe ask around.
        I second getting a lazier dog. Also, I’d ask for one they don’t think will bark in your building. Your dog can be crated all day, but one dog walk will make a huge difference if you can afford it. Sometimes nice neighbors are happy to walk or spend time with a dog, esp the retired ones.
        You might also want to consider exercise and social activities that include your dog. My dog and I run in the mornings, and there’s a big group of singles with dogs that meet in a park nearby on Fridays to tailgate while the dogs play (we take our dog bc he loves the other dogs). You’ll naturally start to meet other dog owners on walks – be on the lookout for ones you like. Also I’ve heard on organized parties – like roof parties – where young singles being there dogs too, but I’m married do never looked into it.
        I don’t necessarily recommend this bc my neighbors do it and it drives me nuts, but you can offset costs by dog sitting on the weekends. There’s are tons of websites where dog owners offer to babysit others dogs in their homes for short periods of time. Since you’ve got one dog, having another for the weekend isn’t that bad.

    9. You’ll need to first figure out the age and size of the dog you want, that’ll help decide the lifestyle the dog will need from you. For a pup that’ll be alone during the day and have a walker, someone who isn’t high energy and perhaps medium, with little history of separation anxiety in the breed (so no Jack Russell or Shit-Tzus for example, read up on the breed traits, it’ll help even if you get a mutt!). You’ll need to make sure it’s fixed and chipped, so either the shelter will do this or you will with the shelter or a vet, you’ll need to get it completely vetted (especially since you’ll be getting a dog walker, don’t want the pup susceptible to catching stuff).

      Consider that you’ll need a crate large enough for when the dog is grown, not just for the size they are now, and food is something that may end up being trial and error if they’re sensitive (think grain allergies, messy but easily treated. I avoid grains just because, one dog is and one dog isn’t sensitive). Try something pretty good like Wellness to start and if you need to adjust check out dogfoodadvisor.com for more help.

      One year old dogs are still considered puppies in my book because (especially if they’re not trained or coming from shelters where they may lose a lot of their socialization and training) they’re still clumsily learning life, although they should be fixed and if not totally, almost entirely potty trained when you adopt (keep in mind you WILL need to field some potty training because most pups get nervous or forget in new environments – this is where the crate and an enzymatic cleaner helps, crate training is in my opinion a must). Around three is when behavior is set for a dog, when they’re grown in my book, you won’t see major changes in them after this unless they’re sick or injured or seriously traumatized. Probably consider an older dog so you know what you’re getting and will have less behavioral or training hurdles.

      Start now with saving up for vet fees, emergency vet visits and any added fees like new food changes, training classes, new bedding or cleaners for messes, as well as treats and fun stuff. Consider the Care Credit card once you have the pup if you think it’ll help.

      Some recommendations that I know I can’t live without as the mommy to two needy rescue dachshunds:
      – Socializing is important. Putting the pup in safe situations where they can get used to other dogs, other people and situations. So on walks, at the vet, at the store, at the park. Your vet will know a good behavioral therapist to consult with if you’d like. It was a life saver with my second dog as he came from an abusive background. Be prepared to have a dog that is afraid of dogs or people, this may show as aggression or shyness, it’s ok you can easily work through this to make the situation easier (but it may never be 100% resolved as I’ve come to accept).
      – Get a sturdy harness. Not a collar for the leash as that is no fun for a dog that likes to tug and is learning walking on leash. Target sells reflective harnesses as do the pet stores. I also suggest a retractable lead AND a normal leash. Use the leash mostly, the lead is for playtime or exploring, you won’t want to wrangle that when at the vet or store. Also consider a muzzle once you adjust to the dog’s reactions and behavior. Don’t get collars that choke, definitely get a poo bag holder for walks if your neighborhood doesn’t have toss stands with baggies.
      – Go to Target and get those awesome beds they have. Get the waterproof liner. Get the fancy cover that suits your tastes. You’ll only have to worry about changing the cover with your decor and seasons because it’s the sturdiest bed I’ve owned. My dogs can’t burrow holes into it and the inside doesn’t ever need to see the washer so no grass or wood chunks all over the place come cleaning time.
      – Train the dog that “no” means no. When he’s barking or doing something bad, “no” is the universal stop command for us. It stops the barking it stops the bad behavior, and it helps build the next step of command training. You’ll want your dog to learn to have great recall and know that down means off the furniture or guest etc. Trainer will help with this if need be, but places like /r/dogtraining on reddit are great resources.
      – Bring treats with you on walks to help distract from scary situations and to reward for good behavior. Helped with my fearful dog and new humans. I use a Crown bag filled with little meaty nibs.
      – Brush their teeth, it’ll cut on teeth cleaning costs at the vet and extractions if they get nasty. If your dog hates brushing (mine totally do) slather some doggy toothpaste on a rope toy. Also carrots and other chewy veggies help. For grooming, I always always always say use an oatmeal conditioner. Both of mine have dry itchy skin, this saves the day for every dog I’ve ever used it on.
      – I can’t think of anything else besides getting insurance. The way it works with mine is you have a lifetime deductible you meet, and most everything after that is covered by them. Both my dogs have $500 deductibles they work to meet their whole lives, doesn’t restart every year. I pay $75 a month for both and it’s very extensive coverage since I worry about slipping discs and other doxie issues. It won’t cover vaccines, but it covers special testing, medications etc. You might feel better considering a membership type insurance plan with something like Banfield, I hear good things but have never used it.

      I’m SO sorry about this length, but I can talk about dogs all damn day and wanted to ramble off the main things I think I tell anyone considering a dog. Feel free to ask away, I’ve worked with rescues and shelters and problem dogs and picky dogs and have spent so much on my own I feel like I owe it to the world lol

  3. Like this suit! I have never heard of the brand though, does anyone have anything from them?

  4. So this mornings chat had me wondering how many of you over achieving ladies are tattooed? I’ll start I’m probably middle of the road. I have 40 hours into my skin and I want more. All my tattoos are within a skirt suit. I’m pretty sure the tattoos draw a lot of attention because when I am out in public I get touched all the time.

    1. Just a few. One on the rear of my shoulder (generally can’t see), one on my right quad (my “crossfit tattoo” that really only shows when I am working out in short shorts) and a small one on the inside of my ankle (my first tattoo) that I have literally never covered up for anything.

      But I want way way more. I’m thinking about doing my left quad next with a big piece. I have a friend who has gorgeous colorful full sleeves but I just don’t know that I want to make that commitment for work. The foot one doesn’t bother me. But showing sleeves would probably be outside of my industry (defense).

      Also, yeah, strangers comment on them. One time a homeless guy called me fat AND commented on my back tattoo at the same time when I was running through Georgetown, so that was fun.

    2. None, never.

      My relatives who are physicians always comment how poorly tattoos age; whether I have that in mind or not, I have never wanted one.

      1. I also have none, and no desire for any. But I’ve always thought the “tattoos age badly” comment to be a strange one given that I’m pretty sure that we’re all going to look like wrinkly prunes one day, ink or no ink :)

        1. I find a beauty in human skin, no matter it’s age. No so much runny fading ink. But my favorite thing about tattoos is that since I hate them I don’t have to get them!

        2. i was considering getting a discreet rose tattoo below my navel in college but thought better of it when my cousin told me that the guys in his fraternity house equated women with tattoos to cheap whores who could be “shared” and then dumped after group sex. I was shocked to say the least but then heard similar things from the women in my dorm. I’m glad I never got a tattoo, and at 36, I’ve never looked back with any regrets. My husband also told me almost the same thing when we were dating.

          1. We tattooed ladies think fraternity dudes and other guys who talk that way about women are undateable and therefore we don’t give 2fu(ks what they think.

      2. I don’t have any but one thing that gave me pause was reading something about not being able to donate blood for a certain time period after getting one. I can’t recall the source otherwise I would link it here but I thought that would be a terrible inconvenience if a loved one needed it.

        1. Im already “too thin” to donate blood anyways so that’s not a concern for me

        2. It’s just one year. Same for piercings or traveling to interesting places.

    3. Is there any truth in tattoo ink having lead in it, which can be a problem with getting MRIs. I don’t have any, but will be getting 2 in connection with breast reconstruction. I can go to my plastic surgeon (who uses medical grade ink) but a lot of women go to a famous tattoo artist in Maryland. I will ask my surgeon when I next see him, but that won’t be for a while.

      1. Well, tattoo ink with lead (Pb) in it is dangerous without involving an MRI, since you run the risk of heavy-metal poisoning.

        The ink issue has to do more with iron (Fe) compounds (which are magnetic) being used. Because of the magnetic properties, they can potentially obscure images, or the placement of the ink/color can be altered by the magnet in the MRI. Definitely talk to your doctor about what to look/for avoid if you think you are going to need future MRIs.

      1. None. Very occasionally, I see an artistic, well-positioned, and very well-executed tatoo, and I think it looks good, though not my style. But most of the tatoos I see are not high quality and look pretty bad — like the person let a high school art student randomly doodle on their body.

    4. I have 2, a rose on my ankle and a sun on my lower back. I am currently saving up for a dragon & tiger piece on my upper back. I’d love to get a tattoo on my arm, but there is still alot of negative attitudes towards them in the legal world, maybe in a few years when I’m 50!

    5. Yes, small one on my right hip. Not visible unless wearing a very small bathing suit. I would like another one, but haven’t committed to a design or location yet.

    6. I want one on my ribcage area but I can’t decide on anything. I used to draw tattoos for people in college though for beer money. I like the idea of more professionals with them but we will see. There’s still tons of stigma about it in the Midwest unfortunately.

  5. When I send out emails I generally address people by their proper title e.g. Ms A or Dr. B. I will switch to the first name basis if the person signs subsequent messages as “Miranda” for example. But I have noticed some people have other ways of signing off. Some will sign their full name i.e. Jane Doe and others just put initials e.g.JD.
    How would you handle it, continue to address them with the formal title or switch to first name basis?

      1. Really? Even if it’s someone you’ve never met? I’m always put off by people jumping right to first names. (And yes I hate when salespeople do it. Hate it.)

        1. Agreed. I am a career law clerk and sometimes I get emails from attorneys that address me by my first name and I always think it’s inappropriate. Sometimes, after I have been dealing with a case a very long time, I can see switching to first names but it always irritates me when it’s assumed and it definitely irritates the judge when he sees it. It’s usually junior associates at Big Law firms that do it and it always makes me think they don’t have a lot of litigation experience.

    1. Really depends on so many factors. Hierarchy? Power differential? Are you asking them for something or vice versa? Typical level of formality in your field, and the field of the recipient if different? Recipient’s age? What kind of impression are you trying to make? Location? It can be a tricky calculus, but it’s well worth considering the nuances of every situation, instead of trying to apply a one-size-fits-all rule.

      1. Yup. You really need to know your audience. I’m a lawyer. If you are emailing someone else within the firm, even if you have never met them, ALWAYS first name. Same with opposing counsel (in email, not in letters). Using a last name would actually make you look clueless/lacking in authority in those circumstances. For judges/law clerks/anyone within the court system, though, always use a last name. (Works with a Judge, above, I can’t believe people use your first name!!! We always use last name for clerks of any kind.)

    2. The only time I start off with a first name is if the person has a name that prevents me from identifying their gender (I don’t interact with anyone with titles so it is always Mr. or Ms.), and even then I will usually try to internet stalk them to figure it out first.

    3. I do it the same way (Ms.). Until someone signs with their first name, I keep using the title.
      I’m very junior though.

    4. I do the same unless:
      1-We have already spoken on the phone and used first names. Or
      2-I am introduced via email using first names (e.g. email from partner says, “Chris, Patricia will be writing the draft.” I will use “Chris” not “Mr. Client”.

      I do use titles with Examiners, even partners do. It is always Examiner Smith, not Mike, not Mr. Smith. This applies even when the Examiner introduces himself as Mike or says call me Mike.

      Foreign counsel is more difficult. I usually start with Ms. Frau and only use first names when they do. I am in California so I think I over-correct for my area’s informality and people are usually very quick to say “call me Mike”. One Canadian even busted out laughing when I called him Mr. Lastname. He never expected such formality from California!

      1. One more thing, if they sign with their initials, use their first name. Initials are less formal than first names.

      2. One more thing, if they sign with their initials, use their first name. Initials are less formal than first names.

        Exception: use initials if that is their preferred first name. E.g. Jon Edward Donald may be addressed as “Jed”.

      3. One more thing, if they sign with their initials, use their first name. Initials are less formal than first names.

        Exception: use initials if that is their preferred first name. E.g. Jon Edward Donald Smith may be addressed as “Jed”.

    5. I cringe when the receptionist at medical offices call me by my first name. Cringe. I am going into the office to get naked and prodded. Have some respect!

    6. I only use the first name if the gender is unknown or I know the person very well. But I don’t care. I have a very informal nickname for my first name and many other attorneys address letters to that name. All other attorneys are men though, so sometimes I get a letter to me, at the firm and it says “Dear Sirs” and that is annoying but meh. Probably just a form. I cringe when someone uses my first informal nickname in an official proceeding though. Especially if my client is present. But I would never say anything honestly.

      1. Oh, and my signature always has my full name typed out with middle initial but if I know the person I will sign just the first name nick name.

  6. Shopping question: can anyone recommend low-profile sneakers (so not ones that scream RUNNING SHOES) available in a wide width? Would adidas originals work?

    1. Keen has some sneaker-y looking shoes. I don’t know if they come in specified wide widths, but I do find that they typically run wide, plus a giant toe box.

    2. I have wide feet and buy men’s shoes. I bought the “Ben Sherman canvas oxford” from NM’s sale yesterday. I wear size 8 women’s and buy a 6.5 or 7 men’s.

  7. I know we aren’t supposed to “gift-up” for holidays and the like. However, one of 2 of the highest positions in my department is leaving to take on a new job in another state. I am not a direct report, but I’ve worked with this colleague closely for the last 8 years. There is a department party planned, but I have not heard of anything else. Do we get a going-away gift?

    1. A framed picture where you all sign the mat is traditional in places I’ve worked.

    2. Or anything that is an inside joke. We gave a boss who left a trophy once that said “best attorney in the world” because there was a running joke that all the other bosses kept getting meaningless awards. Something engraved from things remembered maybe?

  8. Truly horrible suit. The fit is completely off – those pants alone are enough to cry over :(

  9. I have in the past used Coobie bras for lounging around. I’m finding that they come up higher than I’d like and show under clothes (and through sometimes). Mine are all due for replacement. I need something lined and with a little bit of support.

    I have a 30(!) band size. I’m tried pre-teen bras, but I’m also a D cup (which isn’t huge — it’s the volume of a 32C or a 34B, just on someone with a tiny ribcage) and feel like the girls are getting pinched on the sides. I wear sports bras a lot b/c they are comfortable, but the look is wretched if I want to leave the house and they totally flatten me out.

    I have lots of good NAS 30D bras, but they are very underwire / bullet proof (so not bad for the office, but not something I want to, say, change the sheets while wearing).

    Is is back to the Coobie? It’s like 80% on my what-I-want scale. Is there anything better though?

    1. Aerie (American Eagle) has a very large variety of sizes, including 30D! I found it useful for my own large band, small cup purposes, but they have all kinds of sizes.

  10. Can anyone tell me if this suit would be suitable for an interview regarding a finance job?

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