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Some of our favorite mid-range suits for women (which sometimes have such frequent sales that they come down to the same range as our “budget” suits) include Ann Taylor, J.Crew, Talbots, Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers, and Antonio Melani. (Talbots and J.Crew usually have plus sizes, and the others offer petites.)
We got an interesting e-mail last week from LPC of Privilege: A High Wasp Stops to Consider, offering to write a post giving advice to newbies from her much higher position. She's got some great advice in here!
Your first big job. Congratulations. By big, I mean in an institution of substance, as a lawyer, a banker, a corporate new hire. We are talking the world of salaries, hierarchies, protocol. And expectations about dress.
Of course this is not the only path. Some people work in design, in small businesses, in retail, at home. But our world has very particular requirements for what to wear. Hence Corporette. Hence this wardrobe advice to women at the beginning of their careers, from one towards the end of hers. I started out in 1981, fresh out of business school, at a large chemical company, and left the corporate world in 2009 as a vice-president for a software services startup in Silicon Valley.
Nice to meet you.
What to wear in an entry level job makes most of us nervous. It's new territory, after all. You are supposed to be a little unnerved. We read up. Ask friends. I remember worrying about the fullness of my first skirted suit, was it too much like a party dress? The thing is, there's no one answer. There is, however, a very simple process to follow to get it right.
The Strategic Principles
- Your clothing sends signals about who you are. Into a very distinct culture. Which varies enormously from corporation to corporation. On purpose. CEOs believe that a strong culture gives them the power to effect change and accomplish goals. They are right. Support their efforts. Fight any battles for change in other arenas, from a position of strength. That's a lesson useful in areas beyond wardrobe.
- Your clothing also talks to you. All day long, are you are comfortable or not, fitting in or not, wearing your favorite colors or fabrics or shapes? Or not. If, as they say, a brand is a promise on which you have to deliver reliably to your customers, your professional image is your brand, and it's got to be one you can deliver. Sustainably over the long, long term. You should feel good in your clothes. Anchored. In the context of your company, or firm culture, of course.
The Bullet Points
- Men pick up different signals than women
- Requirements for dress vary from function to function
- Navy blue really is the corporate color of choice
- Fabric – not too little, not too much
- Keep your style rebellion subtle
The Speaker Notes
Men And Women
Men pick up different signals than women. No matter what you do, most likely most men will be assessing whether you are hot or not. They can't help themselves. Ensures continuity of our species, so let's just assume it's not a bad thing and let it go for now. As long as they behave professionally. Hot is off the table. Assess your clothing to make sure you are doing your part to keep it off the table. I'm not saying that you make yourself unattractive. But hot is off the table.
The women senior to you are hoping you succeed. Unless you want to take their job or steal their thunder. We worked really hard and put up with all kinds of stuff exactly so that you could have an easier time than we did translating hard work into success. This also means we really don't want you to wear clothes that get in your way. I have been asked, twice, to tell entry-level professional women that their clothes were inappropriate. Both cases involved underwear showing through white. Yeah. Don't do that.
We also understand that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. You are more than welcome to tell us you like our shoes. Not in front of the guys, though. Provokes too many jokes. You are more than welcome to ask us what we think about possible clothing purchases. Assuming we've said more to you before than, “When will your manager be back?” You are more than welcome to start dressing like us. Just don't spend more money than we do, please. It makes us wonder if you really need this job.
You might wish what I'm saying was different. I might wish it was different. But wishing it was different and working with what is are two separate tracks. Both important. I'm talking the what is track here.
Varying Functional Requirements
Requirements vary from job function to job function. Each area has its uniform. Pretty much as you would expect, sales, polished, marketing, a little flashy, finance, a little boring, engineering, a little quirky, manufacturing, strong-toed shoes. Flippant, perhaps, but largely true.
Navy Blue
For some reason that anthropologists have yet to explain, the American corporate color of choice is navy. Gray is safe, black not dangerous, but navy is both friendly and authoritative. Think airplane pilot. Good airplane pilot. What is he or she wearing? Navy.
Fabric, Not Too Little, Not Too Much
You know already not to wear too little fabric. No cleavage. No exposed high upper arms. No too short skirts. No too tight sweaters. (You do know that, right?) But you should also shy away from too much fabric. Beware ruffles, full skirts, overly-wide legged pants. Why? I have no clue. Perhaps for the same reason that army uniforms are fitted. No danger of cloth catching a bayonet in the heat of battle. But trust me. For entry level, keep your clothing tailored but not tight.
Unleash Creativity Only On Jewelry, Shoes, Bags. At Least At First.
You can carry that bright green bag. Except maybe to a sales call. (Or to court. I'll let the lawyers weigh in there.) You can get creative with shoe ornaments, or two tones. You can tuck a peace sign necklace down that button down shirt. Or a Republican elephant. Rebellion takes different guises in different cultures.
With these principles in mind, here is your strategy.
- Show up Day One with a few good basics. Do NOT buy out Ann Taylor in advance.
- Observe your peers and your superiors carefully. What do they wear? For customer/court contact? Routine days in the office?
- Add to your wardrobe in the first few months. Mostly what you see around you.
- Find some small but tangible ways to brand your individuality. Otherwise known as style.
Must Have, Start Your Job Pieces, In The Best Fit And Fabric You Can Afford
(Note from Kat – we've kept Lisa's advice (in words) but added in our latest favorites for the items mentioned…)
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1. Navy pants suit.
Doesn't have to be dowdy. Stretch wool is always helpful.
Some of our favorite budget-friendly interview suits for women include stores like Banana Republic Factory*†, J.Crew Factory*†, Mango*, and Express†, as well as widely available brands like Anne Klein Executive, Vince Camuto*, Calvin Klein*†, and Tahari ASL. For a vintage vibe, check Amazon seller Marycrafts*. (* = some plus sizes also, † = petites)
2. Dark jacket(s) to wear with navy, gray, black and khaki trousers.
Some of the best blazers for women in 2024 — great for wearing as separates! — include options from Cinq à Sept, J.Crew (collarless and collared), Everlane, and Madewell. Hunting for a deal? Check out J.Crew Factory and Amazon (Cicy Bell, The Drop).
3. Cardigans
I've been informed by experts that J. Crew does a good job of mid-range cashmere. Oatmeal is a great neutral for many, especially when your skin tone says no to gray. Extra points for knowing that, on TV, we all look best in earth tones.
Some of our favorite classic cardigans for the office as of 2024 include those below — definitely check Talbots and J.Crew Factory if you're looking for plus sizes, and Quince is always a nice affordable option. Veronica Beard and Brooks Brothers both keep a bunch of options in stock.
4. The button down
Confession. I hate button downs, they constrain my shoulders, and cause shirtfront gap anxiety. To say nothing about untucking every time I wave my arms to make a point. But I wear them whenever I visit the financial industry. When in Rome.
5. T-shirts
I've found Petit Bateau to offer the best quality, but Banana Republic, Old Navy, anything will look OK for a few months before pilling. Cotton in summer or any time in California. So comfortable that they will not contribute to any job-related tension. Cover with the cardigan or jacket if you've got to look extra formal.
Looking for the best work-appropriate T-shirts? As of 2024, some of our favorite dressy T-shirts for work are from Amazon Essentials, Theory, Everlane, J.Crew, Banana Republic, Nic + Zoe, and Vince — also check our posts on opaque white tees and the best plus-size tees for work!
4. Cotton/cashmere blend for colder areas.
Or offices where they just can't figure out the thermostat. Drives me nuts.
5. Flat or 2.5 inch heels, no toes, in colors that match your trousers.
Skirts really do look better with heels on the higher side. Stuart Weitzmans are comfortable, and good shoes can last a decade. Trust me.
These are some of our favorite comfortable low heels for work as of 2024… also check out CK Calvin Klein, Trotters, Sam Edelman, and Sarah Flint!
6. Invisible underwear
Surely we don't need a picture of underwear?
When to Show Personality and Flair at the Office
So, is that all you ever get to wear? Shades of white, black, earth and quasi-military tones? Are you doomed to a life without aubergine? No. Now you go to your new office. You look around. You observe. You travel a foreign land, and you watch. You add pieces in accordance with what you see. All the men wear those french blue shirts? Go get one, if only for the key sales meeting. The Director of Marketing sports a pair of red shoes? OK then.
Before I even began my corporate career, when I was still in business school, I happened to attend a law firm party for summer associates. One of the few, if not only women partners was there. I will never forget. She wore a pin on her shoulder. Silk violets. Large, I mean it was LARGE. I told her I loved it. She said that at this point in her career, she felt she could wear flowers if she please. Impunity. Once you close the deal, beat your numbers, win the cases.
The first time I stepped outside the standard corporate wardrobe was on my 30th birthday. I bought a dress. Sure, it was navy, had buttons, a belt. But this was 1986, and I was living dangerously in a dress. As was one of the top 3 salespeople in my region, I had the right. My most recent, and possibly my final act of rebellion? Of tongue-in-cheek personal style? A Hello Kitty diamond necklace. By the time I hit 50, I knew what I could and did contribute to an organization. And if I wanted to hang a silhouette of a kitty with a pink hair bow around my neck, I would. Except at a sales pitch to the New York Stock Exchange. Personal style statements need to be made to the right audience.
Other Resources
If you have a tolerant, perhaps high technical workplace, there's no better place to look for inspiration than Audi at Fashion For Nerds. This week she writes on adding pizazz to corporate wear. And I recommend that anyone interested in style that works for your particular shape go visit Imogen Lambert at Inside Out Style. This week she writes on how to add personal power in the workplace. Very apropos.
(Social media images via Stencil (slightly older woman leaning in to share secrets with a younger woman).
Anonymous
Just a note on navy suits and what shoes to go:
I always thought that navy suits can be matched with either brown or black shoes. Brown when you want to make it more casual, black when it’s dressier. I often wear my navy suit with brown suede or leather pumps, and also with black heels or loafers, and think both work just fine.
Lola
I’m echoing the rest of the lawyers on here who aren’t as keen on navy. I’m a litigator and in court almost every single day. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a female colleague in navy, and rarely men. I am most comfortable in my brown, black, or medium-gray pantsuits. If the top under your jacket is colorful, none of those colors should wash anyone out.
I’d be happy to wear navy, but I just don’t think retailers make modern professional suits in that color any more. Most of my suits are from Ann Taylor or BR. I don’t think they have any in navy. (But if they did, these are my favorite shoes, and I’d wear them with navy. They work with everything. http://www.zappos.com/softspots-millie-teak-leather And soooooooo comfy.)
Al
You ladies are so cute with your “no navy suits anymore” comments. There was one featured just recently on Corporette!
http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod99160077&ecid=NMCIGoogleBaseFeed&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=T2FLG
If I weren’t so broke, I’d buy it. I think it’s the belt that’s got me drooling.
Thankful
I just recently started my first legal internship at a state agency and I went through this same wardrobe crisis – what to wear?! I saw no female attorneys while interviewing and had no idea what the standard outfit for women was. It can be really difficult to gauge the formality of an office when men are just wearing shirts and ties (jackets hanging up)…they have it so much easier! I compromised by wearing a suit the first day, meeting the other female attorneys and realizing a suit would be quite over-dressed. So I’ve brought it down from the formality of a suit, but knowing that my (male) boss prefers people to look professional I always wear heels, pressed dress pants, and a nice blouse (with a cardigan in case the a/c kicks on). I’m often a little more dressed up than others in the office, but it’s a balancing act between how my boss expects people to look and not, as others have said, trying to “show up” the more senior females who dress SIGNIFICANTLY more casual than I would expect attorneys to dress, even in the office.
Anyway, all that rambling to say that I’m so glad I’ve discovered this site, and the comment feeds! So helpful, even with the diverging view points. And I completely appreciate that it’s so positive – I agree with so many of you, I can’t handle the negativity of sites like ATL.
Thank you for a great post!
Pat
I thought the article was spot on, as a boomer in the work place, I have had my share of discussions about far worse than underwear showing through.
Just a note, tho, as a individual who learned to spell prior to text messages, the word Manager has two “a” s. (check the title of the article.)
Thanks!
Emily
I really don’t want to be snarky, but someone who spells “though” as “tho” should probably not throw stones. “Manager” to “manger” is probably an innocent typo, but is leaving off the “ugh” a texting thing?
Kimberly
Excellent article with spot-on advice for women of excellence. Thank you.
Joyce Lau
Re: Hot.
Knowing Lisa (well, “knowing” in a blogging sense), she meant hot a bit ironically. Think “hawt” in Paris Hilton voice. Ba-ba-boom hot. Guys making snide remarks in the urinal about you hot. The hot that you don’t want at work.
That’s very different than attractive. Read carefully. Nobody is telling you to make yourself ugly. Would we even be at this site if attractive was not a goal?
An example: I have a friend with, well, giant breasts. Giant. As a petite Asian, I can wear a shirt dress with the top buttons undone. Or a tight-ish V-neck cashmere sweater. She can’t. She’d look like a porn star. She has to be more careful.
Once, I caught an intern wearing a black short skirt, black tights, high heels, and the poor thing couldn’t walk. Plus, she was a bit pudgy, so the skirt kept riding up, and she had to fuss with it. I know this is unfair, but if she were naturally elegant, stick skinny and capable of walking in heels, she might get away with it. She couldn’t. She looked like a girl desperate to score at a nightclub. I gently pulled her aside.
Lisa is right. Men don’t think of these details the way we do. But they do react very strongly to how women look. Fair or not, I cannot wear flats and something ruffly — I did once and my interviewee told me I looked like his granddaughter. A petite Asian girlfriend in her 40s was told that “as a young woman” she should be content with a lesser deal. (The old white guy boss probably presumed she was 25).
BTW, I just wrote a few post on the dilemmas of working women. Be interesting to see what some of you think.
Imogen Lamport
LPC great post – lots of great points.
Navy is the colour of security and trustworthiness, that’s why it’s such a great corporate colour.
Thanks too for the link love.
Attractive is fine, it’s playing up ‘hotness’ (sexiness) that is not appropriate in the corporate environment – I’m sure that is what was implied.
caroline
I think this post is full of excellent advice.
I do take issue, however, with the point about dressing in less expensive clothes than your superiors. As a young woman, I feel it is necessary for me to look and behave professionally. I do not feel, however, that I need to dress in a way that immediately brands me as inferior. Also, I think it is a bit ironic that the same column that issued this advice also suggested buying Theory suits, which are among the most expensive on the off-the-rack market (think $600 for a skirt suit and $700 for a pant suit) and Weitzman shoes ($300 a pair). Unless the women above you are work are wearing St. John or haute couture, then you are probably dressing in a more expensive manner than they are by sporting these items.
Otherwise, wonderfule advice! Thank you, and please keep it coming.
caroline
Also, please excuse my typos…I wrote that very quickly.
dclaw
This is a fantastic post. Thanks so much for this!
Ivana
Wow, I’m really breathless because of the things I just read! I just discovered this site, because I was looking for some guidelines about “business casual” for my own blog, and am really stunned to find how (IMHO, great abbreaviation also just discovered it:D) conservative the corporate world is. Maybe it’s because us crazy Dutchies (I’m from Holland) are often dressed waaaaaaaay to casual, but never in the 1.5 years that I work in corporate communications have I encountered so many suits.
One of the reasons I avoided law firms (I studied law) is exactly to not get caught up in suits, because frankly that’s really not me and I would have to turn off my personality for the days at work. I thought I got a good glimpse of what that world would look like, because we as communication professionals advise many different firms. That way I’m still in the corporate world just in a different role.
Reading this post and the comments really made me realize how casual Dutch people are dressed compared to other continents. Or maybe just how a big NooB I am when it comes to coporate dressing. Whatever it is it makes me really wonder why suits are the general accepted “professional” wear?
I really still can’t pin point what’s wrong with a skirt (with decent knee length) with a great (covered up) blouse and heels? It’s all covered up, and definitely not trashy. Somehow it i still considered too casual.
Hope you ladies have a great theory about this, so please enlighten me:D!
Luca
Great post. Any recommendations about hair? Better up or down?