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More reader mail to catch up on… we thought this one was particularly relevant given some of yesterday’s questions in comments about when/how to wear nylons. Pictured: Calvin Klein Hosiery Perfectly Sheer Invisible Control Top Pantyhose, available at Amazon.com for $12.

First, while you’ve discussed whether or not to wear stockings, I could really use some advice on HOW to wear them once one decides that they’re appropriate. I rip stockings to shreds whenever I wear them, so I would really appreciate tips on finding a durable brand, as well as how to properly care for them.

We would agree with most of the commenters in yesterday’s post that stockings/nylons aren’t necessary for most day-to-day activities. If you’re interviewing? Nylons for you. If you’re going to court or to a big meeting? Ditto.

As for which brand, we got a ton of great suggestions when we ran a poll on whether black hose or nude hose was better (the readers overwhelmingly contradicted us, saying nude hose was the way to go); check those out in comments.

In terms of other tips for wearing stockings… it sounds crazy, but a pedicure is almost more important when you’re wearing hose than when you’re barefooted because it stops your toenails from shredding the hose. Secondly, you may want to look for various bells and whistles, such as reinforced toes (although this will limit your shoe choices if you have any shoes with a very low vamp). Also, maybe it’s just us, but we feel like control-top hose last longer than hose without; this may be because they stay put better and we’re not constantly yanking them up. If that isn’t enough, there are gloves that you can buy to wear while putting on your pantyhose (although, unless you carry them with you, they won’t help when you have to go to the bathroom.)

Otherwise, in terms of technique, we’ve found it’s best to put them on slowly — take the leg opening and gather the fabric until all you’ve got is 3-4 inches of hose to put over your toes. As you step into the hose and pull them up your leg, un-bunch the fabric as you go, trying to pull the hose tight enough as you go.

As far as caring for pantyhose, the best advice is to hand-wash them, particularly if you shell out for a very nice pair (Wolford, La Perla, etc). We are (generally) far too lazy to hand-wash anything, however, and we’ve had success with the delicate cycle of our shared industrial washer in our apartment building. Our method: get a lingerie bag or hosiery bag to put your hose in. Keep bras (or anything with hooks) out of this load if you can. Add sweaters, workout clothes, etc, and wash it on the delicate cycle, in cold, with Woolite. We would guess it would probably even be okay if you followed those steps but threw it in a regular cycle with regular detergent. Whatever you do (for the love of God!) airdry your pantyhose.

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We’re catching up on reader mail this week…

I am a first year in law school, consequently I am broke. In reading your advice about dressing professionally for busty ladies, I met the same problem I always do. I am aware Neiman’s and Nordstrom’s have the better underwear departments, in terms of selection and fittings; but I still can’t afford it. Are there any suggestions for a wide selection in a more affordable price range? Again thanks for all your great advice!

First, go to Neiman’s and Nordstrom’s or specialty shops to get fitted anyway, even if you can’t afford to fill your entire lingerie drawer there. You may feel required to buy one bra to compensate the woman for her time, but it shouldn’t run more than $50-$75 (TOPS), and you shouldn’t feel obligated to buy more than one. The reason for this is that they have a broader selection than the cheaper stores — for example, it’s next to impossible to find anything below a band size 34 in Victoria Secret’s or Macy’s, or a cup size higher than a DD, and that may be where you fall.

Once you know your size, figure out which brands you like.  Not only will brands fit you differently, but once you know what you like you can research the brand.  For example, Fantasie is a line that’s starting to be sold more in America; it’s owned by the same company that owns Rigby & Peller (the corsettierre to the Queen!), Goddess, and Freya — which will increase the odds that any of those other brands will be ones that fit you, as well.

Now that you know your size and brands, shop the sales.  Nordstrom frequently has good bras marked down at least 30% — at Bloomingdale’s recent sale you could get up to 40% off anything, even full price, and so you could get 40% off the brands that almost never go on sale, like Chantelle and Le Mystere. All of the online underwear shops have sales (BareNecessities.com, HerRoom.com, FigLeaves.com, Bravissimo.com) and at least FigLeaves has a permanent “clearance” site set up.  Furthermore, you can sometimes find great deals at outlet stores (particularly Century 21 in NYC) or at specialty shops — we’ve gotten $100 bras out of $20 bins at clearance sales.  You may want to also seek out communities, such as the Thirty-two D community on LiveJournal, where members gossip about brands and sales.

Finally, EBay doesn’t seem like a logical place to look for underwear, but there are some great deals to be had if you know the size and brand to search under.  For example, seller “widdlerontheroof” lives near a factory outlet for Rigby & Peller and frequently sells R&P, Fantasie, Freya, and Goddess bras at steep discounts.

Photo credit:  jessica rabbit, originally uploaded to Flickr by greyloch.

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A lot of times for our TPS reports, people will note that they couldn’t get away with that, as they’re too well-endowed to wear a certain dress.  It’s one of the sad facts of clothes that most “professional” outfits seem to be intended for women shaped more like Jackie rather than Marilyn (or Betty rather than Joan, in today’s parlance).  But well-endowed women have to dress professionally also!  Below, some tips… Please chime in and let us know if you have any others.

1. Know your bra size. If the girls are multiplying throughout the day (and your bra is giving you the dreaded quadra-boob effect) then your cup size is too small.  Alternatively, if your straps are digging into your shoulders, your band size is probably too big.  Take our advice — go and get fitted at a reputable place like Nordstrom’s.  (The absolute best place to get fitted, in our experience?  Department stores in London –  they have the best range of sizes and the most knowledgeable fitters.)  You may find that you’re a 30F instead of a 34D.

2. Wear appropriate bras for work. You may think that a lacy balconette is fine to wear beneath your suits — after all, your boss doesn’t see it.  (Or so we hope.)  But your goal with underpinnings should be to minimize distractions — a balconette bra might let things bounce around while you’re rushing down the hall to your next meeting (not a terribly pretty — or professional — sight), or the lace pattern might show through your otherwise tasteful shirt.  Aim for seamless bras wherever possible, with full coverage.  Again, make sure that your bra fits and isn’t creating quadra- or sexta-boobage.  Some favorites include Fantasie ‘4510′ Smoothing Underwire T-Shirt Bra (pictured) and Le Mystere ‘Dream Tisha 9955′ Underwire T-Shirt Bra.

3. Minimize if you still feel uncomfortable. If you’re wearing the right size and an appropriately modest bra for work, and you’re still feeling too busty, you may want to look into a minimizer.  Our $.02: in our experience these are uncomfortable for the day where it’s going to be a long haul, and your breasts tend to look less natural.  But it may make you feel better, sartorially speaking.

4. Know your neckline.  The Jackies and Betties of the world can wear the crew necks and the mock turtlenecks — those styles really are not flattering on the Marilyns and the Jackies of the world.  If you fall into the latter camp, you still have a wide selection — v-necks, scoopnecks, boat necks, cowl necks, and — if accesorized correctly — turtlenecks.  (A button-down shirt, open at the collar,  creates the effect of a v-neck.)  Most of these look great beneath suits (the exception being the boatneck, which looks better on its own).

Women: Women's Basic Camis - Punk Pink

5.  Raise the eyeline in artificial ways. If you’re well-endowed and trying to be professional, the last thing you want is to draw anyone’s eye to your cleavage.  If you’re wearing a v-neck that dips a bit low for work, first add a camisole. Go for something plain — not lacy — that will raise the neckline and cling to your chest (and not gape open).  Ann Taylor Loft makes some good ones; we’re also fans of Old Navy’s simple cotton camisoles (pictured and linked).  (Another tip:  never wear a nude camisole — you don’t want people wondering if that’s your skin or a camisole they’re seeing.  Go for white or black if you don’t have one that matches or compliments your top.)  You can also use accessories to draw the eye upwards — a pair of pearls that stops below your clavicle tends to draw the eyes there; a brooch placed on your shoulder also tends to draw the eye there.  Avoid pendants or long necklaces that hit you at your bust’s widest point.

6. If you’re busty, you may find that you prefer tops that have no buttons – t-shirts and sweaters don’t gape open, after all.  If you find that sweaters hug your curves a bit too much, try for a silky camisole beneath them — it makes everything lay better.  (A cotton camisole will just stick to the sweater.)

7.  When buying things, buy them to fit your bust. If a button-down blouse is gaping in your chest, it’s never going to look right — just buy the next size (or two) bigger and then get it tailored.  Similarly, with dresses — if the girls are smooshed then the dress will never fit properly.  (You can try it with a minimizer, but trust us — just get the next size bigger.)  Some brands that are forgiving in the bust include Rebecca & Drew (which has button-down shirts sized by bra sizes); Shoshanna dresses, David Meister dresses, Tahari, and Ann Taylor.

8.  Know your proportions. If your figure is an hourglass, do your best to work within that shape — even if you long to wear A-line skirts, a pencil skirt may be more flattering.  Similarly, if you’re more of an inverted triangle — large on top with slender hips (or not much of a waist) you may want to try to wear an A-line skirt, to balance the top.  You may find that wearing outfits of entirely one color are more flattering.  Many, many articles have been written about this — you may want to check out What Not to Wear’s Fashion Tips for the Hard to Fit, or Happygrrls’ quiz, What Body Type Are You? We’re also partial to Jezebel’s Sadie’s tips on finding your personal style by finding an era in which your body type was in vogue.

9. Buy suits with multiple buttons. When suit shopping, look for suits with at least two or three buttons on them — a higher closure will mean your bust is more covered.  Avoid suits with a single button in the middle.  (If you’re considering a double-breasted suit, please put it down, and stop shopping until the urge passes.) Pictured: Lafayette 148 New York ‘Everson’ Jacket, available at Nordstrom’s for $398.

10. Try to find a professionally-dressed woman with your body type and watch her, both to get inspiration for outfits for yourself, as well as to learn which things don’t look good.  Examples: Oprah.  Karen on Will & Grace (sometimes too sexy, sometimes just right). Maria Bartiromo.  We’ll try to keep thinking of suggestions…

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